Fashion in the 1840s for Men
The usual Evening-Dress is and so imperiously insisted upon, that it might be well-nigh classed in the category of uniforms.
The American Gentleman's Guide to Politeness and Style (1857)
The New Await for Men: Somber Style
When Queen Victoria ascended the throne in 1837 the industrial revolution was in full swing. The prosperous emerging middle class strove for respectability and homogeneity and was heavily influenced by the solemn Protestant movement of the time. As a result, the impractical dandyism of the Regency leisure grade was replaced by functional and somber sartorialism preferred by the men who, in the words of i historian "wanted to announced as grave and serious equally the banks and factories they owned". Then it was that the concept of the gentleman trumped the idea of the courtier, leading The Tailor and Cutter to declare in 1878 that "wearing apparel in our day has ceased to be the index of a man's social position."
Victorian Evening Etiquette
The Regency'southward general sartorial bureaucracy of Dress and Undress carried through into the Victorian era. I popular etiquette guide of the menses summarized that "to be 'undressed' is to be dressed for piece of work and ordinary occupations" while to exist "dressed" was to show respect for club past wearing the garments "which the said society pronounces as suitable to detail occasions."
Differentiating Twenty-four hour period & Evening Wear
New to the era was a more distinct sectionalization of the Clothes category into morning time dress and evening dress. Morning dress was formal daytime attire. Evening dress – often referred to as full apparel – remained the pinnacle of patrician wearing apparel and the practice of dressing for dinner was essential for men who aspired to genteelness. Instructed Routledge's Manual of Etiquette:
In the evening, though only in the bust of your own family unit, wear only black, and be as scrupulous to put on a clothes coat as if you lot expected visitors. If you take sons, bring them up to exercise the aforementioned. It is the observance of these minor trifles in domestic etiquette which marks the true gentleman.
Thanks to Uk's global influence, this sartorial practice was adopted around the world. America'south Brahmins, who were the aristocracy of the times, were eager to contain the refined traditions of their former rulers so every bit to imbue their immature country with an Old Give-and-take civility. Said the highly pop American etiquette book, Sensible Etiquette of the Best Society:
The true evening costume, accepted as such throughout the earth, has at length, though not without some tribulations, established itself firmly in this country. With advancing civilisation, we have grown more cosmopolitan, and the cosmopolitan evening dress, acknowledged everywhere from Indus to the pole, has been granted undisputed sway.
The fundamental etiquette of this new costume remained elusive to Americans, notwithstanding. To the author's dismay, most of her countrymen did not understand that evening article of clothing was meant to be worn in the evening and instead considered it appropriate for whatever formal occasion, day or night.
The book also independent two notable exceptions to the universal custom of dressing up afterwards night:
- Sunday evenings were not appropriate for the finery of evening dress and so forenoon dress was worn instead.
- In some circles evening dress was considered to be an arrayal, therefore "it is well in provincial towns to do as others do".
Theoretically, the new total dress maintained the old sub-hierarchy of relatively informal dinner apparel, full general evening apparel, and most formal ballroom and opera clothes. Even so, the distinctions between the strata were increasingly minimized as a effect of the new era's emphasis on uniformity and practicality. "Evening dress is the aforementioned, whatever the nature of the evening's entertainment," said Sensible Etiquette. "The theory is, that a gentleman dresses for dinner, and is then prepared alike for calls, opera, or ball."
The Components of Victorian After-Night Attire
Defining Victorian Evening Apparel
Considering the era spans over 60 years, there is no such thing as typical Victorian men's evening dress. Instead, there are iii fairly singled-out phases:
- the early period from virtually 1840 to 1860 is notable for the gradual disappearance of Regency flamboyance
- the centre period from virtually 1860 to 1880 – also known as the outset of the American Golden Historic period – is notable for a strict codification of standards
- ]the late period from about 1880 to 1900 – the 2d half of the Gilded Age – is notable for the introduction of the dinner jacket and the consistent 2-tier evening wearing apparel lawmaking
The following review covers the evolution of individual garments over the start 4 decades of the era as the apparel code was gradually streamlined. The trends described here apply to both Britain and America unless otherwise noted.
General
Equally the evening outfit became more understated and uniform, the need to execute it well became critical. Superb materials, expert tailoring, and the latest styling were now the simply traits that could distinguish the attire of a true Victorian gentleman.
Changes in Coats
Initially the tailcoat – known equally a dress glaze during this time – continued to be used for both evening dress and forenoon wearing apparel. By the 1860s, it was worn only in the evening.
As in the Regency era, various dark colors were acceptable at first. The popularity of the blue version with gilt buttons and of the brown version waned over fourth dimension until by 1853 "the proportion of black evening dress coats is twenty to one against any other color" according to The Gentleman'south Magazine of Mode. This increasing appeal of black during the Victorian era was due to a number of reasons: the previously mentioned somber Protestantism of the fourth dimension, the pragmatism of living among the soot-covered cities of the industrial revolution and a decreed year of mourning post-obit the death of the Queen's husband in 1861.
Vanity also played a part in men's preference for black according to The American Gentleman'south Guide to Politeness and Fashion which noted that information technology had a slimming result and was a challenging look to pull off. "It is a very high compliment to any man to tell him that black becomes him, and information technology is probably attributable to this property that blackness is chosen, par excellence, for evening or ball dress."
Apparel coats at first continued to be single or double-breasted and while morning dress coats were now designed to push upwardly, evening versions were nonetheless intended to exist worn open so as to evidence off the waistcoat and shirt front. This rendered the double-breasted's buttons purely ornamental and by 1870s the most common mode of evening dress coat had two buttons on either side of the front.
The V and M notch collars connected to be pop in the early Victorian era but the latter faded into history around the 1870s. Silk lapel facings appeared in the 1860s, which menswear author Nicholas Antongiavanni credits to the envy of civilian men wearing their tailcoats in the company of heraldic finery or full-apparel military uniform. Unlike today, the facing did non cover the unabridged lapel but stopped at the edge of the multiple buttonholes that were standard on lapels of the fourth dimension.
A stylish culling in the 1860s was the whorl neckband (shawl neckband) just it cruel out of favor by the early '70s. Velvet collars remained another fashionable option until the tardily Victorian menses.
Dress coat sleeves often had false cuffs which were sometimes velvet to match the collar. Push button trim began to appear in the 1870s. Pockets remained hidden in the tails because "in company," said The Handbook of the Man of Way, "every bit little as possible should be borne in pockets of the coat."
The length of the tails and the peak of the waist continued to vary co-ordinate to the whims of fashion.
Wonderful Waistcoats of the Early on Victorians
The waistcoat was the final evening garment to retain its Regency flamboyance. At kickoff, it was made of lavish materials such as silk, satin, velvet and cashmere and was often decorated with embroidery. Past the 1860s, it was by and large cloth or silk and limited to black or white. This choice of waistcoat colour was one of simply 2 variations allowed in Victorian evening apparel (the tie color existence the other) although British etiquette regime advised that white was unfashionable and should be express to simply the most formal of occasions.
Whether ebony or ivory, evening waistcoats were always single-breasted. They were increasingly low cut with a V-shaped opening until the 1870s when the U shape appeared. Conversely, the waist became increasingly higher so that by the 1850s the lesser was usually cut straight.
The shawl neckband was typical on the waistcoat and two pockets were featured by mid-century. Buttons were either material covered or gold or fancy stones. A trouser loop was introduced to the wedding and evening waistcoats in 1840 and remains a mark of a quality waist roofing to his twenty-four hour period. The nether-waistcoat, a Regency novelty, died out by the 1850s due to the shortened waist previously mentioned. (Illustrations from subsequently in the era testify what appears to be a slipped waistcoat, a pseudo under-waistcoat now more usually associated with morning dress.)
Pantaloons and Trousers
At first, pantaloons – tight fitting and curt plenty to display the foot and ankle – were the norm and trousers were immune only for less formal evening occasions. Over fourth dimension, trousers became acceptable at all evening functions although they remained more fitted than day trousers. The pes straps introduced in the Regency era passed out of style during the 1840s.
Originally, evening trousers were black kerseymere or sometimes cashmere but past the 1860s they were made were fabricated of the same wool equally the tailcoat. Similar the tailcoat'due south adoption of silk facings, trousers began to sport war machine-inspired ribbon braid on their outseams in the 1850s.
Shirt & Collar: Ruffles Give Way to Pleats
Ruffled shirt fronts were increasingly rare throughout the Victorian era every bit fragile pleats became the decoration of selection. Plain fronts were the nigh mutual style by the 1850s and required a thick bust to maintain an unrumpled advent on a shirt that otherwise fit very loosely. Eyelets began to appear at the aforementioned time to accommodate studs and starched cuffs made cufflinks more stylish.
Stiffened upright collars appeared in the 1860s and began to display wings in the following decade. Turndown collars were occasionally seen in the 1860s and early '70s.
Neckwear: From Cravats to Bow Ties
The standard evening neckwear was a white cravat at commencement and so by the 1860s, a white "neck-tie" or bow tie, all in washable material. In America, black ties were equally acceptable merely in U.k., they were relegated to the least formal affairs. Past the 1860s, evening bow ties were generally narrow and featured pointed ends.
At first, evening footwear connected to be black dress boots or pumps although they were now being specifically described as patent leather. In 1857, The Fashionable Dancer's Casket reported that "Shoes, or pumps, accept gone out, excepting at State balls, where courtroom dresses are worn." Boots were now the foot covering of choice.
Evening stockings were generally black silk although some period illustrations bear witness white silk hose making occasional appearances throughout the Victorian era.
A Plethora of Hats
Co-ordinate to the 1839 Handbook of the Human of Fashion, "At a trip the light fantastic toe or big evening political party, hat bras is appropriate and elegant; but to comport a mutual hat on such occasions, as is done by some awkward imitators of mode, is clumsy and absurd." The "mutual hat" mentioned is the top hat which by the 1840s "had inverse from a fashion novelty to a status symbol for conservative men," explains the McCord Museum'due south Spider web site. "The height hat symbolized respectability, wealth, dignity and social standing: High and imposing, it made men look taller and 'handsome.'
Although acceptable for evening article of clothing, the black summit hat was impractical non just because of the same awkwardness when carried but also for its susceptibility to harm when stored under a gentleman's seat at the opera or theater. Consequently, when Antoine Gibus perfected the collapsible version of the top hat around 1840 the resulting gibus hat quickly became the most popular headwear subsequently six o'clock.
Originally common in beaver fur, the height hat (aka topper) was increasingly pop in silk hatter's plush cheers to advances in silk chapeau construction, the significantly lower price, the style'due south adoption by Prince Albert in 1850 and the depletion of the Due north American beaver by mid-century. For this reason, information technology was also oftentimes known as a silk hat.
Early Victorian Gloves & Outerwear
Gloves
The use of evening dress gloves evolved from mandatory – "the ungloved hand is the cloven foot of vulgarity" (1839) – to recommended, particularly when dancing – "to touch the pure glove of a lady with uncovered fingers is impertinent!" (1857) – to optional – "this way of uncovered easily originated amongst English royalty, and it finds favor with many of the leaders of American society" (1878). Regardless of the necessity, one protocol remained firm throughout the flow: gloves must always be removed for dining.
Nighttime or pale colors were acceptable for ordinary evening vesture but at very formal occasions such every bit assurance, gloves were required to be white or perhaps stake yellow, also known as vitrify. The luxurious properties of kid leather made it the perfect fabric for evening gloves.
Outerwear
According to the Handbook of English Costume of the Nineteenth Century, both cloaks and overcoats were worn with Victorian evening article of clothing, the latter becoming more mutual over time.
Other
At present that evening waistcoats featured pockets, information technology was acceptable to shop watches in them every bit was the fashion with morning dress. Attached to the timepiece was a decorative chain which attached to a waistcoat button to prevent the sentinel from falling out of its storage place. This sentinel concatenation or lookout man guard could be embellished with valuable trinkets or mementos at offset but by 1878 authorities were cautioning that less jewelry "always looks more manly and aristocratic than a superabundance of decoration."
Shirt studs and cufflinks were another new addition to evening wear. Etiquette mavens recommended that the studs and sleeve-links be kept small and unproblematic and favored ones made of turned aureate or busy with diamond, black pearl or opal.
An 1857 American etiquette volume suggested a "soft, thin, white handkerchief" be carried with evening dress and a number of menstruation British manuals referred to scenting this accessory with perfume.
Set for Relief: Contemporary Critics of Victorian Formal Wearing apparel
Evening dress may have been virtually obligatory in the nineteenth century but that doesn't mean information technology was universally loved. One of the most popular etiquette authors of the Gilded Historic period shared his surprisingly frank opinion of the outfit:
It is elementary nonsense to talk of modern culture, and rejoice that the cruelties of the night ages tin never be perpetrated in these days and this country. I maintain that they are perpetrated freely, generally, daily, with the consent of the wretched victim himself, in the compulsion to wear evening clothes. Is there anything at over again inconsolable or more hideous?
No doubt this writer was non the but Victorian male person to resent dressing up in a formal uniform half dozen nights a calendar week. Day habiliment had been fabricated significantly more comfortable with the advent of the common sack adapt and information technology was high time to devise a like solution for evening wearing apparel.
Dress Decorum & Formal Facts
Wearing apparel Decorum: U.Due south. Formal Daywear
Early American etiquette books went to great lengths to explain why a clothes glaze before dinner was highly inappropriate "on anyone but a waiter." While well-nigh of society'due south elite understood that morning apparel was the only formal attire correct prior to six o'clock, the masses never overcame their perception that evening wear was all-purpose formal vesture, resulting in today'southward peculiar American phenomenon of what could best be described as daytime "waiter weddings".
Formal Facts: The Social Flavour
The social season, or simply "the Flavor", was the time of year when society'due south elite would leave their country estates to reside in the urban center and nourish k dinner parties, charity events, and debutante assurance.
Co-ordinate to Debrett's, the London season ran from April to July and from October until Christmas. It commenced each year with the opening of the opera season at Covent Garden.
The New York social season began in Nov with the National Horse Show and the showtime of its own opera flavor and lasted until early summer.
Formal Facts: Opera Etiquette
Entire chapters of Victorian and Edwardian etiquette manuals were devoted to the intricate social maneuvering that took place at operas amid the wealthy owners of private boxes.
Dress Decorum: Codified Attire
During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, men of ways were highly conscientious in dressing according to occasion and time of solar day. This required a wardrobe of formal day and evening wear, lounge suits for casual outings and a seemingly countless array of outfits designated for specific sports and leisure activities.
Formal Facts: Shirt Tabs originated in Victorian times
The tab at the bottom of these shirt bosoms were a mid-Victorian invention that buttoned to the trousers and prevented the garment from riding upwardly. At the time, shirt fronts were stiff, and the shirt tab ensured everything stayed in identify no matter if you were seated or stood upward. Quality tuxedo and white necktie shirts today still take that very same characteristic.
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